A hem is when the bottom edge of a skirt, trouser leg or sleeve is folded up and stitched flat. It finishes the garment and protects the edge.
What is a hem allowance?
The fold line is called the hemline. The gap between the fabric edge and the hemline is the hem allowance, written H.A on patterns. To get a straight hem, the hem allowance needs to be even all the way round.
- Straight hems usually have a 3.5cm hem allowance.
- Flared and A-line skirts usually have 3.5 to 5cm.
- Circular skirts are best with a tiny 0.5cm hem.
- Always check your pattern.
How to sew a straight hem
- Overlock the raw edge (see how to stop fabric fraying).
- Fold the hem up to the hem allowance, then pin and iron it flat.
- Stitch along the overlocked stitching. It looks neater and stops the hem flipping back when you wear it.
How to hem an A-line or flared skirt
A slightly curved hem needs gathering a little before you fold it, or it won’t lie flat. Add a row of gathering ease along the edge, gently pull it in to fit, then fold, iron and stitch. Here’s how to add gathering ease.
How to sew a rolled hem
Very flared circular skirts don’t need gathering. Use a rolled hem instead:
- Use a small 0.5cm hem allowance.
- Fold the edge over gradually as you stitch.
- A rolled hem foot can do the rolling for you.
- A slight zig-zag stitch holds it securely.
Top tip: sew the hem last. Try the garment on first, then pin the hem to the length you want.
See my free Hems card, Curved Hems card and Hemming card. You’ll hem the elasticated waist skirt and pyjama trousers.
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Nanna Betty Sewing School teaches you one skill at a time, with simple sewing cards and short videos for your phone. Every make takes 2 hours or less, and it’s all free.
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