Collette Costello

Tag: sewing

  • How to Gather Fabric and Fit a Sleeve

    How to Gather Fabric and Fit a Sleeve

    Gathering fabric, sometimes called adding ease, helps fabric curve into shape. You’ll use it on the top of sleeves, on curved hems, and on gathered skirts and collars.

    How to gather fabric on a sewing machine

    Hand-drawn illustration of knotting thread ends and pulling threads to make gathers
    From my book, Sewing Made Easy
    1. Set your stitch length to long, 4 to 5, and loosen the tension right down, to about 0.5.
    2. Stitch two rows along the edge you want to gather, 0.5cm apart, inside the seam allowance.
    3. Tie the thread ends together at one end only.
    4. At the other end, gently pull the two bottom threads. The fabric will slide along and gather.
    5. Spread the gathers out evenly.

    Every machine is different, so test on a scrap and adjust the settings if the gathers are too tight or too loose.

    Easier option: a ruffler foot or shirring foot gathers the fabric as you sew. The gathers are stitched in place, so they can’t be adjusted afterwards.

    How to fit a sleeve the easy way

    When you’re learning to make clothes, it’s tempting to sew the whole top together and then try to fit the sleeves into the armholes. That’s fiddly! This way is much easier.

    Hand-drawn illustration of adding ease and stitching a sleeve to the shoulder and side
    From my book, Sewing Made Easy
    1. Sew only the shoulder seams. Leave the side seams open.
    2. Add ease to the top of each sleeve, between the notches.
    3. Pin the sleeve to the armhole, matching the single notch to the front and the double notch to the back (see what are notches).
    4. Pull the gathers in or let them out until the sleeve fits, with the ease spread evenly. Then stitch.
    5. Sew one long seam from the end of the sleeve, up and down the side of the garment.
    6. Hem the sleeves to the length you need.

    Top tip: it’s easier to add a cuff or hem the sleeve before you sew it into a tube. The same goes for waistbands: attach them before you sew the skirt or trousers together.

    Stretchy garments may not need any ease at all.

    This post contains affiliate links. If you buy through them, I may earn a small commission at no extra cost to you.

    Learn to sew with Nanna Betty

    Nanna Betty Sewing School teaches you one skill at a time, with simple sewing cards and short videos for your phone. Every make takes 2 hours or less, and it’s all free.

    Start sewing, it’s free

  • How to Iron On Interfacing (and Which Weight to Use)

    How to Iron On Interfacing (and Which Weight to Use)

    Interfacing is a soft fabric added to parts of clothes and bags to give them body and support. You’ll find it in cuffs, collars, waistbands and neck facings, and in bags, purses and coasters.

    Hand-drawn illustration of ironing on interfacing and stitching non-fusible interfacing
    From my book, Sewing Made Easy

    Types of interfacing

    • Iron-on (fusible): has glue on one side and is ironed on. I recommend this for beginners, as it doesn’t move while you sew.
    • Sew-in (non-fusible): stitched in place around the edges.

    Which weight should I use?

    Interfacing comes in different weights. Choose one the same weight as your fabric, or a little lighter.

    • Light-weight interfacing works for most dressmaking.
    • For bags, a few layers of calico can work better than heavy interfacing. It gives weight without creasing.
    • Stretchy clothes usually aren’t interfaced.

    How to iron on interfacing

    1. Cut the interfacing using your pattern piece. Make it a fraction smaller than the fabric, so glue doesn’t get on your ironing board.
    2. Lay the fabric wrong side up.
    3. Put the interfacing on top, glue side down. The glue side usually feels rough or shiny.
    4. Cover it with a pressing cloth.
    5. Press the iron down firmly for about 10 to 15 seconds, then lift it and move to the next section. Don’t slide the iron, or the interfacing may shift.
    6. Let it cool, then lift a corner to check it’s stuck. If not, press that area again.

    Top tip: always check the instructions that come with your interfacing for the heat setting, and test on a scrap first. Some interfacings shouldn’t be used with steam.

    Ironing tips: read when to iron when sewing. You’ll use interfacing in the coasters.

    Learn to sew with Nanna Betty

    Nanna Betty Sewing School teaches you one skill at a time, with simple sewing cards and short videos for your phone. Every make takes 2 hours or less, and it’s all free.

    Start sewing, it’s free

  • How to Sew Stretchy Fabric on a Sewing Machine

    How to Sew Stretchy Fabric on a Sewing Machine

    Stretchy fabrics like jersey need to be sewn differently to woven fabrics like cotton. Sew them with an ordinary straight stitch, and the thread will snap as soon as the fabric stretches.

    Hand-drawn illustration of zig-zag stitch along the edge of stretchy fabric
    From my book, Sewing Made Easy

    Use zig-zag stitch

    Zig-zag stitch stretches with the fabric instead of snapping. Use it for seams and hems.

    • The zig-zag doesn’t need to be wide. Experiment with the width and length on a scrap first.
    • A thinner, longer zig-zag can look neater on hems and bias binding.
    • Straight stitch is fine on parts that don’t stretch, like top-stitching a neck facing.

    Use a ballpoint needle

    Change to a ballpoint or jersey needle. Its rounded tip slips between the threads instead of piercing them, so it won’t make holes or ladders.

    Seam allowance for stretchy fabric

    Stretchy clothes often use a smaller 0.5cm seam allowance. Check your pattern. An overlocker is ideal, as it joins the seam and finishes the edge at the same time.

    What stretchy clothes don’t need

    • No darts: the stretch shapes the garment instead.
    • No ease: sleeve tops may not need gathering.
    • No interfacing: it may rip when the fabric stretches.
    • No facing: bias binding is often used instead.

    Top tip: for a really professional finish on hems and necklines, sewists use a coverstitch machine. It’s a treat, not a must.

    New to sewing? Start with woven cotton first. Read where to buy sewing fabric in the UK, and see the stitches in types of sewing stitches.

    Learn to sew with Nanna Betty

    Nanna Betty Sewing School teaches you one skill at a time, with simple sewing cards and short videos for your phone. Every make takes 2 hours or less, and it’s all free.

    Start sewing, it’s free

  • How to Sew a Hem: Straight, Curved and Rolled Hems

    How to Sew a Hem: Straight, Curved and Rolled Hems

    A hem is when the bottom edge of a skirt, trouser leg or sleeve is folded up and stitched flat. It finishes the garment and protects the edge.

    Hand-drawn illustration of a hemline fold and a straight hem stitched on an overlocked edge
    From my book, Sewing Made Easy

    What is a hem allowance?

    The fold line is called the hemline. The gap between the fabric edge and the hemline is the hem allowance, written H.A on patterns. To get a straight hem, the hem allowance needs to be even all the way round.

    • Straight hems usually have a 3.5cm hem allowance.
    • Flared and A-line skirts usually have 3.5 to 5cm.
    • Circular skirts are best with a tiny 0.5cm hem.
    • Always check your pattern.

    How to sew a straight hem

    1. Overlock the raw edge (see how to stop fabric fraying).
    2. Fold the hem up to the hem allowance, then pin and iron it flat.
    3. Stitch along the overlocked stitching. It looks neater and stops the hem flipping back when you wear it.

    How to hem an A-line or flared skirt

    A slightly curved hem needs gathering a little before you fold it, or it won’t lie flat. Add a row of gathering ease along the edge, gently pull it in to fit, then fold, iron and stitch. Here’s how to add gathering ease.

    How to sew a rolled hem

    Very flared circular skirts don’t need gathering. Use a rolled hem instead:

    • Use a small 0.5cm hem allowance.
    • Fold the edge over gradually as you stitch.
    • A rolled hem foot can do the rolling for you.
    • A slight zig-zag stitch holds it securely.

    Top tip: sew the hem last. Try the garment on first, then pin the hem to the length you want.

    See my free Hems card, Curved Hems card and Hemming card. You’ll hem the elasticated waist skirt and pyjama trousers.

    Learn to sew with Nanna Betty

    Nanna Betty Sewing School teaches you one skill at a time, with simple sewing cards and short videos for your phone. Every make takes 2 hours or less, and it’s all free.

    Start sewing, it’s free

  • How to Stop Fabric Fraying (With or Without an Overlocker)

    How to Stop Fabric Fraying (With or Without an Overlocker)

    Before you sew pieces together, it’s important to stitch over the raw edges so they don’t fray. This is called overlocking the edges, and you don’t need a special machine to do it.

    Hand-drawn illustration of overlock stitch and zig-zag stitch on fabric edges
    From my book, Sewing Made Easy

    How to overlock edges with zig-zag stitch

    The simplest way for beginners is zig-zag stitch on your ordinary sewing machine.

    • Set the stitch length to 2 to 3.
    • Set the stitch width to 3 to 4.
    • Stitch close to the edge of the fabric, without going off the edge.
    • An overedge or overcast foot can help, if your machine has one.

    Should you buy an overlocker?

    An overlocker (also called a serger) trims and stitches the edge in one go, for a really tidy, professional finish.

    • Pros: quick, neat, and it can join and finish stretchy seams at the same time.
    • Cons: overlockers are expensive and can be tricky to thread. They’re a good investment once you’re sewing a lot, but you don’t need one to start.

    Other ways to stop fraying

    • Pinking shears: zig-zag scissors that slow fraying. Good for fabrics that don’t fray much, like felt.
    • Hand-stitching: blanket stitch over the edge. Slower, but relaxing.

    Overlocking stretchy fabric

    An overlocker can join two pieces of stretchy fabric and finish the edges at the same time. If you do this, the seam allowance usually needs to be reduced to 0.5cm. Read more in how to sew stretchy fabric.

    Practise on my free Overlocking card. You’ll use it on the tote bag, cushion cover and pyjama trousers.

    Learn to sew with Nanna Betty

    Nanna Betty Sewing School teaches you one skill at a time, with simple sewing cards and short videos for your phone. Every make takes 2 hours or less, and it’s all free.

    Start sewing, it’s free

  • Sewing Machine Feet: The Only 3 a Beginner Needs

    Sewing Machine Feet: The Only 3 a Beginner Needs

    Sewing machines come with all sorts of weird and wonderful feet. Yet you can sew most cushions, bags and clothes with just three.

    Hand-drawn illustration of three sewing machine feet
    From my book, Sewing Made Easy

    The 3 machine feet every beginner needs

    • Standard foot: the foot that’s usually already on your machine, for straight stitch and general sewing.
    • Zig-zag foot: this has a wider hole, so the needle can swing from side to side. It can be used for straight stitch too, so some machines come with this one fitted instead of a standard foot.
    • Zipper foot: narrow, with a notch on one or both sides, so you can stitch right next to the teeth of a zip.

    Extra feet to try later

    As you get more confident, you may find these useful:

    • Buttonhole foot: stitches buttonholes to the size of your button.
    • Rolled hem foot: rolls and stitches tiny hems, perfect for circular skirts.
    • Elastic foot: stretches elastic as it stitches it on.
    • Gathering foot: gathers fabric slightly as you sew.
    • Ruffler foot: my favourite! It’s big and costs more than a gathering foot, but it makes beautiful ruffles. You can make nearly anything with a length of ruffled fabric.

    Feet fit machines in different ways, some snap on and some screw on, so check yours before you buy. Sew Essential has a helpful guide to presser feet with photos.

    See my free Machine Feet card, and for more about stitches, read types of sewing stitches for beginners.

    Learn to sew with Nanna Betty

    Nanna Betty Sewing School teaches you one skill at a time, with simple sewing cards and short videos for your phone. Every make takes 2 hours or less, and it’s all free.

    Start sewing, it’s free

  • Sewing Machine Won’t Sew? 10 Fixes to Try

    Sewing Machine Won’t Sew? 10 Fixes to Try

    Sewing machines are brilliant when they work, and so frustrating when they don’t. After years of teaching, I can tell you that when a machine won’t sew it’s nearly always one of the same few faults, especially when you’re new to it, rushing or tired.

    Work through these fixes in order before you think about a repair.

    My 10 fixes for a sewing machine that won’t sew

    1. Change the needle. It may be bent, broken or dull. Put the new one in with the flat side facing the back.
    2. Re-thread the top thread. Check it goes through every guide and sits between the tension discs.
    3. Set the tension. For standard sewing, set it to between 3 and 4. Check your manual for anything else.
    4. Release the bobbin winder. If it hasn’t been reset after winding a bobbin, the needle won’t move.
    5. Check the bobbin. Make sure it’s in the right way round. On most machines the thread unwinds anti-clockwise.
    6. Check your thread. It may be too thin or poor quality for the project. Metallic threads break easily.
    7. Clean the machine. Use a small brush to clear dust and threads out of the bobbin case.
    8. Change the fabric. Domestic machines struggle with lots of layers and thick fabric like denim.
    9. Check the timing. Tried everything? The machine may need a professional service to fix the timing.
    10. Take a break. Machines have a knack of stopping when you’re stressed, then working perfectly the next day!

    The right settings for everyday sewing

    Sewing machines come with lots of dials and knobs, which can be confusing. When you’re learning to sew, the only two settings you need to change are the tension and the stitch length. For general sewing, use:

    • Tension: 3 to 4
    • Stitch length: 2 to 3. As a beginner there are few reasons to change this for straight stitch.

    If the bottom thread is being pulled up through the fabric, or the top thread is bunching underneath, you may need to change the tension:

    • Use a lower tension for lightweight and stretchy fabrics.
    • Use a higher tension for thicker, tightly woven fabrics.

    Top tip: only change the tension one number at a time, and test it on a scrap of the same fabric until you find the setting that works.

    How to stop it happening again

    • Never turn the handle backwards. Always turn it towards you.
    • Lower the needle into the fabric before you start sewing.
    • Take both threads up and back under the foot before you start (see how to thread a sewing machine).
    • Trim stray threads after sewing, so they don’t get pulled back into the machine.

    You’ll find these fixes on my free Machine Won’t Sew card too. Thinking about a new machine? Read my best sewing machine for beginners UK guide.

    Learn to sew with Nanna Betty

    Nanna Betty Sewing School teaches you one skill at a time, with simple sewing cards and short videos for your phone. Every make takes 2 hours or less, and it’s all free.

    Start sewing, it’s free

  • 10 Gifts for People Who Love Sewing (and Beginners Who Want to Learn)

    10 Gifts for People Who Love Sewing (and Beginners Who Want to Learn)

    Looking for a present for someone who loves sewing, or who’s always said they’d like to learn? As a sewing teacher, these are the gifts I’d be thrilled to unwrap, from little stocking fillers to something special.

    This post contains affiliate links. If you buy through them, I may earn a small commission at no extra cost to you.

    1. Good fabric scissors

    A sharp pair of dressmaking scissors is the gift every sewer appreciates. I recommend the Milward dressmaking scissors gift set, which comes with thread snips too. Add a ribbon to the handle with a note: “for fabric only”!

    2. A sewing book

    For a beginner, The Great British Sewing Bee: Back to Basics is a lovely start, especially for fans of the show. For someone getting to know their machine, try Simple Machine Sewing. Here are more of the best sewing books for beginners.

    3. A thread collection

    Good thread makes sewing so much easier. A Gütermann thread pack gives them a rainbow of colours in one go.

    4. A homemade learn-to-sew kit

    My favourite gift for a beginner, and it costs very little. Print one of my free sewing patterns, add a piece of pretty cotton fabric, a spool of thread and a few pins, and tie it up with ribbon. Here’s more on sewing kits for adults.

    5. A sewing box full of essentials

    Fill a sewing box, or a pretty biscuit tin, with the 10 sewing tools every beginner needs: tape measure, pins, a pin cushion, tailor’s chalk, needles and a seam ripper.

    6. A beginner sewing machine

    The big one! A simple mechanical machine is all a beginner needs. Here’s my best sewing machine for beginners UK guide to help you choose.

    7. Beautiful fabric

    A metre of something special, or a gift card for their favourite fabric shop. Here’s where to buy sewing fabric in the UK.

    8. A handmade tote bag

    If you sew yourself, make them a tote bag with their name or initials on it. Here’s how to make a personalised tote bag.

    9. A sewing class

    An experience they’ll remember. Here’s how to choose between sewing classes near you or learning to sew online.

    10. Your time

    The best gift of all. My Nanna Betty taught me to sew on cosy Sunday afternoons, and those memories are more precious to me than anything I’ve ever been given. Offer an afternoon of sewing together, with tea and cake.

    Little stocking fillers

    • Thread snips
    • A pretty pin cushion or magnetic pin dish
    • Tailor’s chalk in white and one colour
    • A bodkin for threading elastic
    • A soft tape measure

    Learn to sew with Nanna Betty

    Know someone who’d love to learn? Nanna Betty Sewing School teaches one skill at a time, with simple sewing cards and short videos for your phone. Every make takes 2 hours or less, and it’s all free.

    Start sewing, it’s free

  • Sewing Kits for Adults: Ready-to-Sew Kits, or Make Your Own for Free

    Sewing Kits for Adults: Ready-to-Sew Kits, or Make Your Own for Free

    For years I sold pre-cut sewing kits for adults: tote bags, coasters, skirts and headscarves, cut from my own vintage-inspired fabrics. Here’s what I learned about ready-to-sew kits, what to look for, and how to put together your own kit for free.

    Collette Costello's pre-cut sewing kits for adults on display in a shop
    Some of my pre-cut sewing kits

    What is a ready-to-sew kit?

    A ready-to-sew kit gives you everything for one make in a box: the fabric (often already cut to shape), thread, any extras like elastic, and instructions. You just open it and start sewing.

    That’s different from a beginner sewing kit, which is the box of tools you’ll use for every project. If that’s what you’re looking for, see what to put in a beginner sewing kit.

    Are ready-to-sew kits good for beginners?

    A kit is a great choice if you:

    • want to try sewing without choosing fabric yourself
    • are buying a gift for someone who’d love a calm, creative hobby
    • find cutting out the hardest part. Pre-cut kits skip it completely.

    The downsides:

    • You only learn one make.
    • Kits cost more than buying the pieces yourself.
    • Quality varies. Cheap kits can have thin fabric or vague instructions.
    • With pre-cut fabric, you don’t learn to cut out, which is a skill you’ll need later.

    What to look for in a sewing kit for adults

    • Clear instructions, ideally with step-by-step photos or a video.
    • Good fabric. A medium-weight cotton is the easiest to sew.
    • A make that suits your level. Bags, coasters, cushions and elasticated skirts are easiest. Leave zips and buttons for later.
    • Everything included. Check whether thread and elastic are in the box.
    • Something you’ll actually use. A useful make is the best motivation to finish.

    Where to buy ready-to-sew kits

    These are my favourite UK shops for sewing kits for adults. Many come with fabric and a pattern, and some include pre-cut fabric so you can start sewing straight away.

    Sewing kits with fabric and pattern

    Dressmaking kits for beginners

    Ready-to-sew clothes kits make it easy to make dresses, blouses and trousers. These come with a dressmaking pattern and matching fabric and thread.

    Craft shops like Hobbycraft and department stores like John Lewis sell sewing kits too, and you’ll find lots of independent makers selling kits on Etsy. Read the reviews and check exactly what’s in the box before you buy.

    Make your own sewing kit for free

    You don’t need to buy a kit to get started. My free printable patterns and sewing cards give you everything except the fabric. Print the pattern, cut it from a cotton you love, and follow the card. Every make takes 2 hours or less.

    Not sure which fabric to buy? Read where to buy sewing fabric in the UK, and for more patterns see my free sewing patterns for beginners.

    A homemade kit makes a lovely gift

    Put together a kit for someone you love: print a pattern, add a piece of fabric, a spool of thread and a few pins, and tie it all up with ribbon. It’s a thoughtful present for anyone who’s always said they’d like to learn to sew.

    Learn to sew with Nanna Betty

    Nanna Betty Sewing School teaches you one skill at a time, with simple sewing cards and short videos for your phone. Every make takes 2 hours or less, and it’s all free.

    Start sewing, it’s free