Darts are where the fabric of a garment is folded and stitched to give it shape. They help clothes curve around the body, usually at the bust, waist and shoulders.
Darts on a pattern
On dressmaking patterns, darts are shown as triangles or diamonds. Triangle darts are found at the edge of a piece, like a bust dart. Diamond darts sit in the middle of a piece, like the waist darts on a dress.
How to mark darts on fabric
- Cut small notches at the wide base of the dart, where the dart lines meet the edge of the fabric.
- Mark the point of the dart with tailor’s chalk.
- You can also chalk the stitch lines, to give you a line to follow.
How to sew a dart
- Fold the fabric right sides together, so the two notches at the base of the dart meet.
- Pin along the dart line.
- Stitch from the wide end towards the point.
- Stitch with a slight curve rather than a dead straight line. Darts are drawn as triangles, but a slight curve makes them less pointy.
- Carry the stitching right to the point, as close to the folded edge as possible.
- At the point, tie the thread ends in a knot instead of backstitching, so the tip stays flat.
- Iron the dart. Bust darts are usually pressed downwards, and waist darts towards the centre.
Top tip: darts can be moved or taken out to change the fit of a garment. This is called pattern cutting, and it can be done by adjusting shop-bought patterns.
Stretchy clothes may not need darts at all, and elastic can be used instead of darts to give shape. See how to sew stretchy fabric and what are notches.
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