Interfacing is a soft fabric added to parts of clothes and bags to give them body and support. You’ll find it in cuffs, collars, waistbands and neck facings, and in bags, purses and coasters.
Types of interfacing
- Iron-on (fusible): has glue on one side and is ironed on. I recommend this for beginners, as it doesn’t move while you sew.
- Sew-in (non-fusible): stitched in place around the edges.
Which weight should I use?
Interfacing comes in different weights. Choose one the same weight as your fabric, or a little lighter.
- Light-weight interfacing works for most dressmaking.
- For bags, a few layers of calico can work better than heavy interfacing. It gives weight without creasing.
- Stretchy clothes usually aren’t interfaced.
How to iron on interfacing
- Cut the interfacing using your pattern piece. Make it a fraction smaller than the fabric, so glue doesn’t get on your ironing board.
- Lay the fabric wrong side up.
- Put the interfacing on top, glue side down. The glue side usually feels rough or shiny.
- Cover it with a pressing cloth.
- Press the iron down firmly for about 10 to 15 seconds, then lift it and move to the next section. Don’t slide the iron, or the interfacing may shift.
- Let it cool, then lift a corner to check it’s stuck. If not, press that area again.
Top tip: always check the instructions that come with your interfacing for the heat setting, and test on a scrap first. Some interfacings shouldn’t be used with steam.
Ironing tips: read when to iron when sewing. You’ll use interfacing in the coasters.
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